A museum in the ruling family's old houses, a one-dirham abra, the spice and perfume souks, and an Emirati lunch.
"Dubai has no history" is something people only say before walking the creek. This route takes half a day, best started in the late afternoon in the cooler months.
1. Al Shindagha Museum
Start where the city began: a cluster of restored houses at the mouth of the creek, once home to the ruling family. Each pavilion tells a chapter of Dubai's story; the Perfume House is a highlight.
2. Lunch the Emirati way
In Al Fahidi, the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding hosts cultural meals in a traditional majlis, where you can ask Emirati hosts anything.
Or try Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant in a restored house nearby: lamb machboos, luqaimat, live music and a rooftop.
3. Cross the creek
Board a wooden abra near the Old Souk and glide past the dhows to Deira, for a dirham or two. Sunset is the best time.
4. The souks
The Spice Souk is a maze of sacks of spices, dried lemons, frankincense and saffron. Ask for samples.
Next door, the Perfume Souk lets you test oud, bakhoor and custom attars at a fraction of mall prices.
5. One more chai
Cross back and finish at Chai Pakoda in Bur Dubai with masala chai and hot pakoras, open until 2am.